Fuller on Food: Tasty treats by sea, by land
Tuesday, August 12, 2008 11:31 PM PDT
By Don Fuller
For The Daily News
Printable version
E-mail this articleA couple of weeks ago we went to the “Seafood Picnic Lunch” class at the Duncan Law Seafood Consumer Center in Astoria. It’s part of a series that Chef Eric Jenkins uses to promote cooking seafood at home.
The class was limited to 18 people, to allow enough participation in meal preparation and tasting. For some, the class was a new experience while others had several classes under their belts.
There were about an even number of men and women but a wide range of ages. By their comments and questions we also had different levels of experience with cooking seafood.
My task was to flake the albacore tuna, one of many ingredients for muffuletta sandwiches. Others were chopping vegetables to be used in the razor clam ceviche — a dish that uses citrus juices to ‘cook’ raw clams.
Another group was busy cleaning squid and green beans for a salad. After watching the group members who were preparing squid and clams, I realized I had a lot more to learn about seafood preparation.
While we worked, we enjoyed the camaraderie, sharing our experiences with food.
Many of us who enjoy time in the kitchen don’t have much of a chance to talk about our efforts. The class showed me that working with others to prepare food and meals can be rewarding.
The work was as much fun as eating the final products.
The class recharged my batteries and gave me a renewed interest in using more seafood in my cooking. It also inspired me to follow up on recent food experiences for ideas for new recipes.
If you read my previous column about a food tour in Portland, you know that I had several new taste treats. I particularly wanted to follow up on the tomato-orange soup at the Flying Elephant deli.
The Internet provided several options for the recipe. One contributor noted that the original recipe appeared in a local newspaper and was from the chef at Flying Elephant’s. I’ve included that version below.
However, when we were at the deli, someone asked one of the employees if the recipe used cream to create its smoothness. The employee said they used only 1/2 cup of cream per gallon of soup. With that in mind, I suggest that you add the cream a little at time and taste after each addition for the level of cream that pleases your palate.
I also attempted to make the vegetarian pâté that we had at Blossoming Lotus. I made the mistake of using basil as one of the herbs, which resulted in the pâté turning from green to brown. The version below corrects that error.
Finally, I recreated a recipe for a sandwich we had at a lunch counter in the Eastmoreland Grocery. Its use of bing cherries is what attracted my attention. It was delicious, and I think you will like my version. (I hope you can still get bing cherries by the time you read this column.)
I made a big batch of the dressing and froze individual containers for future sandwiches.
ELEPHANT’S TOMATO-ORANGE SOUP
Serves 4.
1/2 cup butter
1/2 medium onion, diced
2 (14.5 ounce) cans unsalted diced tomatoes with juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt (1/2 teaspoon regular salt)
1/2 teaspoon ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup orange juice, preferably fresh
1/2 cup whipping cream
In a medium saucepan, melt butter, add onion, and sauté until translucent. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper, baking soda, and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered about 15 minutes or until slightly thickened.
Puree in a food processor or use a hand blender. Strain through a sieve. Return to saucepan and stir in orange juice. Also add cream, but you might want to diminish amount of cream to taste after adding 1/4 cup before adding more cream. Bring to a simmer and adjust seasonings if necessary. Serve hot.
— Adapted from a version of the recipe found on www.techsoup.org
SUNFLOWER PATE
2 cups hulled sunflower seeds
1/4 cup finely minced herbs, oregano, thyme, parsley, cilantro, and/or rosemary in any combination.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or to taste
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
Soak sunflower seeds 6-8 hours and rinse well in large bowl. Drain seeds. (My source states that you can let sprout for 2 hours in bowl—a step I left out. Leave the sprouted sunflower seeds in bowl and fill with water to float the loosened seed skins over the edge of the bowl. Sprouting helps retain freshness and color of finished pate.)
Blend all ingredients using a food processor or hand blender, adding more oil for a softer consistency. Serve with a crisp cracker.
— Adapted from a recipe found at www.digestivewellnesscenter.com
CHICKEN SANDWICH WITH BING CHERRY DRESSING
Serves 4.
1 pound sliced chicken
4 strips bacon, fried crisp
4 slices provolone or Havarti cheese
8 leaves of leaf lettuce
1/2 cup mayonnaise
6 ounces bing cherries, pitted and slice in half
1 medium sweet onion
1 (9 or 10) inch loaf focaccio bread
Clean onion of stem, root, and skin and cut in half across its center. Cut each half into small wedges no more than 1/2-inch wide. Place in microwave safe container and microwave on high until onion is soft and transparent.
Heat butter in a medium heavy skillet over medium heat until foam subsides. Add the cooked onion and continue cooking stirring occasionally until the onion begins to caramelize, about eight minutes. Add bing cherries and continue cooking until the cherries are limp and soft. Remove from heat and add salt and pepper to taste. Use warm on sandwich.
Split focaccio loaf through its center. Brush centers with butter and lightly toast each half on a griddle or in a large skillet.
Cover the bottom half of the toasted focaccio with mayonnaise. Spread slice chicken evenly over mayonnaise. Cover the chicken with cheese. Lay strips of bacon evenly across cheese. Cover the bacon and cheese with the warm bing cherry mixture and cover it with lettuce leaves.
Place the top half of the focaccio loaf over the filling and with a knife divide the loaf into four even servings.
— Liberally adapted from a sandwich made at the Eastmoreland Grocery and Market, Portland, OR
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