How sweet it is
Wednesday, December 8, 2004 7:55 AM PST
By Don Fuller
Printable version
E-mail this articleDo you have problems dicing sticky fruits and candied peels for your cookies? Are you not sure when your chocolate chip cookies are done? Would you like to know how to make your own Graham Crackers?
Would you like a recipe of a chewy oatmeal cookie or would you prefer a soft oatmeal cookie?
Have you yearned to know how to make Chocolate Whoopie Pies?
The answer to these and any other question you might have about cookies can be found in a new cookie book now on the market, "The King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion."
The cookbook has almost 500 pages filled with traditional and new recipes for cookies, and essential information about cookie making that includes a multitude of tips about the best techniques connected to making and baking cookies.
A section on equipment and tools that are often needed for cookie making describes the various tools and makes recommendations as the best kind to purchase. In the back of the book is an encyclopedic list of ingredients. For example, they give a complete explanation about butter, why it is essential for cookie making, the differences among butters in their fat content, and the reason you should not store butter for too long.
I was particularly impressed by its first recipe section, "The Essentials."
In this section, the authors describe how to make the classic cookies, such as chocolate chip or sugar cookies. In the case of chocolate chip cookies, there is a recipe for the essential chewy chocolate chip and the crunchy chocolate chip.
Following the essential recipes are variations, such as the Deluxe White Chocolate Macadamia Cookie or the Good-as-Store-Bought Cookies. With the essential and the variation recipes, the chocolate chip section has 13 recipes.
After receiving this book, I came up with a clever scheme to have a supply of quality cookies for my own cookie jar in the name of investigative journalism. I asked Judy to organize a bake-off, using recipes in the cookbook and the skills of her friends known for their cookie baking.
Judy distributed recipes and asked them to select one or two recipes to bake for a tasting at our house.
I agreed that I would have the group select three or four of the cookies as ones that I should share with my readers, along with information about the cookbook. It worked out just fine. Our counter with filled with twelve dozen cookies, the bakers then worked in three teams of two to select the best cookie out of the four they tasted.
The top four cookies then were tasted and ranked by a second team, the esteemed This Day editor, Cathy Zimmerman, and her colleague, Tom Paulu.
A discussion followed. The tasters found much to compliment in the cookies they tasted. One judge commented that each cookie held a surprise for him. His expectations were at one level, but in tasting he found a surprise, making the cookie a step above the ordinary.
Some of the bakers felt that the cookies they chose did not live up to expectations, given the cookbook's description. The process sometimes required some interpretation of method or a correction of baking times, but generally the methods were clear and helpful.
Several participants preferred the more traditional crisp cookies. Some found the recipes tried "too cakey."
My conclusion from all of this is that with the cookbook in hand and a careful review of the multitude of recipes available, there are enough recipes to satisfy most palates and cooks.
My plan then was to thank the bakers and the judges for their efforts and send them on their way --- leaving the balance of the cookies on our counter. Judy, however, suggested that each of them fill their plates with one of each of the 12 cookie types and take them home for their family's enjoyment.
Rats, foiled again.
I wish to thank the bakers who volunteered their time and effort in trying out some of the recipes. They include Karen Dennis, Phoebe Long, Betty Algeciras, Liisa Gilbertsen, Linda Nelson, Karen Pickett and my wife, Judy. Their comments were insightful and their rendering of the recipes well reflected their excellent baking skills.
If you are interested, the cookie cookbook is available at the Borders Bookstore in the Three Rivers Mall or can be ordered at Paperbacks Galore with delivery within a few days.
I planned to publish all the high-ranked recipes, but the recipe for the Chocolate Almond Biscotti recipe is long and involved. The cookbook has an excellent illustrated method that goes a long way toward making the process understandable, which could not be reproduced.
Therefore, I chose to include the recipe for Magic in the Middles Cookie as an alternative. As one of our bakers pointed out, you can't go wrong with a cookie that includes both chocolate and peanut butter.
CLASSIC APRICOT SQUARES
Filling
2 cups (13 ounces) chopped dried apricots
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) brandy (optional)
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
1 1/2 cups (12 ounces) water
Crust and topping
2 1/4 cups (9 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups (5 ounces) confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (2 sticks, 8 ounces) unsalted butter
1 cup (4 ounces) chopped pecans or shredded sweetened coconut (optional)
Coarse sugar (optional)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9 x 13-inch, 11 x 11-inch, or similar-sized pan.
To make filling: In a medium-sized saucepan, stir together the apricots, brandy, sugar, and water and bring to a boil. Cook the mixture for 8 to 10 minutes, until the fruit is soft and has absorbed most of the water. Cool slightly, then puree it in a food processor or blender, or with an immersion blender.
To make crust and topping: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder. Using a pastry blender, your fingers, or a mixer, cut in the butter until the mixture is crumbly but will hold together when squeezed. Transfer about 1 1/4 cups of the mixture to another bowl, stir in the nuts, and set aside.
Press the remainder of the crust mixture into the bottom and slightly up the sides of the prepared pan. Bake the crust for 14 to 16 minutes. Remove it from the oven.
While still warm, spread the crust with the filling. Spread the reserved topping mixture over the filling. Sprinkle with coarse sugar, if desired. Return the pan to the oven, and bake for 28 to 32 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack. Cut into squares.
These freeze very well.
LEMON DROPS
Dough
1/2 cup (1 stick, 4 ounces) unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups (8 3/4 ounces) sugar
1 cup (8 ounces) sour cream (regular or low fat, not nonfat)
1/2 cup (4ounces) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 to 2 tablespoons grated lemon rind (zest)
2 1/4 cups (9 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
Topping
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
1 drop Fiori de Sicilia, 1 or 2 drops lemon oil, or 1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
Yellow food coloring (optional)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two baking sheets.
To make the dough: In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar. In a small bowl, combine the sour cream, lemon juice, and zest; then stir this into the butter mixture. Mix in the flour, baking soda, and salt, beating to make a smooth, soft dough.
Drop the dough by the tablespoonful unto the prepared baking sheets. Bake the cookies for 18 minutes, or until they're a very light bold around the edges. Remove them from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool.
To make the topping: In a small food processor or blender, process together the sugar, lemon, and a few drops of food coloring. Add additional food coloring until the sugar is the tint you want. Sift this sugar over the cooled cookies just before serving.
MAGIC IN THE MIDDLES
Dough
1 1/2 cups (6 1/4 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (1 1/2 ounces) unsweetened natural cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar (and extra for dipping)
1/2 cup (4 ounces) brown sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick, 4 ounces) unsalted butter
1/4 cup (2 3/8) ounces smooth peanut butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg
Filling
3/4 cup (7 1/8 ounces) smooth peanut butter
3/4 cup (3 ounces) confectioners' sugar
Preheat over to 375 degrees. Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two baking sheets.
To make the dough: In a medium-sized mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. In another medium-sized mixing bowl, beat together the sugars, butter, and peanut butter until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and the egg, beating to combine, then stir in the dry ingredients, blending well.
To make the filling: In a small bowl, stir together the peanut butter and confectioners' sugar until smooth. With floured hands, roll the filling into 26- one-inch balls.
To shape the cookies: Break off about 1 tablespoon of the dough, make an indentation in the center with your finger, and press one of the peanut butter balls into the indentation. Bring the dough up and over the filling, pressing it closed; roll the cookie in the palms of your hand to smooth it out. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Dip the top of each cookie in granulated sugar and place on the prepared baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Grease the bottom of a drinking glass and use it to flatten each cookie to about 1/2 inch thick.
Bake the cookies for 7 to 9 minutes, until they're set. Remove them from the oven and cool on a rack.
Don Fuller, an avid cook, retired as dean of instruction at Lower Columbia College in 1998. Readers can reach him in care of the paper at The Daily News, P. O. Box 189, Longview, WA 98632 or by e-mail at dfuller@teleport.com
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